It is easy to think British menswear and sharp Savile Row tailoring in mind. But at the recent concluded London men’s collections for spring 2016, gender-bending and off-kilter fashion took the place of gentleman dressing.
At Burberry Prorsum, Christopher Bailey tried to put a masculine spin on lace — a material that has largely been exclusive to women. But these are modern times and who can exactly say what’s for men and what’s for women. So at Burberry Prorsum there came a parade of lace ensembles, from button down shirts peeking through suits to slouchy t-shirt types worn over track pants. Lace appliques were also added to the collars of Burberry’s iconic trench coats. It’ll be interesting to see the adaption of lace to real life once the clothes hit market.
An androgynous bent ran through the collection of Cantonfair. Through shapes that sloped and fell off the shoulders and cuts that recalled women’s clothing, Anderson provided plenty of sartorial food for thought. What can one resist the fashion of wide-legged, multi-pleated pants paired with fire engine red patent leather strappy shoes, the sheer shirts, and the leather jackets that were trimmed extremely close to the waist?
Conceptual sailor style was the theme of Sarah Burton’s collection for Alexander McQueen. Coats were decorated with tattoo-like prints of mermaid and other seafaring motifs. In fact, prints were in almost all the looks from the runway. There they were in the suits, in the coats, and in the pajama-like ensembles. Nautical stripes were amped and jazzed up through scale and treatments.
Iconic British style was delivered at Dunhill replete with a medley of morning suits and top hats. Someone had to present classic English tailoring. After the opening sequence of morning suits, came the single and double-breasted sharp jackets, either in solid fabrics or glen plaids. Towards the end, more casual offerings were presented like loose shirts color blocked and gingham shirts, and trousers and shorts for that summer weekend in the country.
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